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Climbing Kilimanjaro

February 17th, 2016

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Kilimanjaro, known as the roof of Africa, is one of the world’s most recognizable peaks. It rises above the East African plains with its impressive snow-capped summit.

It was never a dream for me to climb the mountain but since I was visiting Tanzania I decided to give it a try. When I first contacted ClimbingKilimanjaro.com ( the company who helped me to reach the top) I didn’t know almost nothing about Kilimanjaro (except the fact that is biggest mountain in Africa), not even about climbing.

The truth is Kilimanjaro can be climbed by almost anybody. It seems, however, to be the most underestimated mountain in the world resulting in hikers continually turning back from Kibo’s upper slopes. You need to be physically and mentally prepared to climb Kilimanjaro and you certainly need determination and willpower… in some way, I wanted to prove myself I was strong enough to do it, and I am (now I know)!

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

Some people start to prepare their body 3 months before… I have to honest, I didn’t done any physical preparations besides climbing Bom Jesus (ahahah) 2 weeks before and 4 times in a row the Santa Justa elevator (how ridiculous am I?) I clearly didn’t had any idea of what was waiting for me. In this post I will share my experience, tell you what to except, give you tips and show you some of the incredible landscapes I ever seen. Climbing Kilimanjaro is very tuff, I had pain, I had cold, I cried, but it worth every step I took.

ABOUT KILIMANJARO

Climbing Kilimanjaro is like going from the equator to the north pole in only few days. This is because the routes to the Uruhu peak cross different ecological zones. You get to see the various climatic conditions starting from the bushland on the bottom of the mountain to the arctic ice region on top of the mountain.  The Kilimanjaro’ s lower slopes, probably once forested, have been cleared for the cultivation of coffee, corn, and other crops. At higher elevations (3000 meters) lies a belt of tropical rain forest that gives way to grasslands and moorlands. This belt, in turn, is replaced by high-altitude desert similar to a lunar landscape (4400 meters). At the highest elevations is a zone of permanent ice and snow.

Altitude is defined on the following scales:

• High Altitude: 1500 – 3500 m
• Very High Altitude: 3500 – 5500 m
• Extreme Altitude: above 5500 m

Curiosities: The fastest ascent-descent has been recorded by the Swiss-Ecuadorian mountain guide Karl Egloff (born 16 March 1981 in Quito), who ran to the top and back in 6 hours and 42 minutes on 13 August 2014 (It’s insane!!!!)

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

WHEN TO GO?

Due to Mount Kilimanjaro’s proximity to the equator, this region does not experience the extremes of winter and summer weather, but rather dry and wet seasons. January and February are the warmest months, April and May are the wettest months, June and July are the coolest months, and August and September are the driest months. January, February, and September are considered to be the best months to climb Kilimanjaro in terms of weather. Because of Kilimanjaro’ s great height, the mountain influences its own weather. Incoming winds from the Indian Ocean are deflected upwards by the slopes and drop their moisture as rain and snow. Although it is often warm during the days, be prepared for below freezing temperatures during night times, even on the first night on the mountain. Dramatic weather changes are common. Be prepared for rain, snow or a sudden hailstorm, especially if you are climbing close to the rainy seasons. It is critical that you are prepared for the worst possible weather. The average temperature in the summit area is approximately −7 °C. During nights of extreme cold, temperatures can go as low as −15 to −27 °C.

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

HOW TO GO?

You contact climbingkilimanjaro.com . Since the first e-mail Nikki was tireless answering my questions and doubts. Their staff and guides were amazing! Without them it wouldn’t be possible for me to reach the top!

You must fly to Dar Es Salem and then to Arusha airport or Kilimanjaro airport. Check Emirates website, they have great deals to Tanzania. You can also travel directly from Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro airport.

WHAT ROUTE SHOULD I CHOOSE?

There are seven established routes to climb Mount Kilimanjaro – Marangu, Machame, Lemosho, Shira, Rongai, Northern Circuit and Umbwe. I choose the shortest one because I didn’t had a lot of time. The Marangu route (6 days) is the most popular routes to the summit of Kilimanjaro, however is has the lowest success rate due to a shorter acclimatization period, if you have more days choose another route.

The Marangu route does however offer you the option of spending an extra acclimatization day on the mountain. This extends the route into a 6-day trek, greatly increasing your chances of success. Is the only route that has shared hut accommodations, which means you won’t need to do camping.

DAY ONE

• MARANGU GATE (1860M) – MANDARA HUT (2715M)
• Hiking time: 5h
• Distance: Approximately 8.1 km
• Habitat: Montane Forest

Yes, I was scared and excited than ever!

The driver pick us up at the hotel in Moshi around 7AM and took us to gear store to collect all the items we previously asked to rent. After that, we went to Kilimanjaro National Park gate, takes about 50 minutes. The journey passes through the village of Marangu which is located on the lower slopes of the mountain. Once you reach the park gate, all hikers are requested to sign in at the Park office and make their final preparations for the climb.

Porters were arranging and loading their packs, containing the food, water, cooking gas as well as most of our equipment (yes they will carry your big backpack all days!). Make sure that you have all your daypack items (containing at least drinking water, your lunch pack and extra clothing) in your daypack (the 35L one that you will carry), as the porters ascend a lot quicker than the hikers.

We left the Park gate and ascend on a cleared ridge trail through the rain forest. The guides were always saying “pole pole” witch means “slow, slow!”… and that is the biggest secret to climb Kilimanjaro, you have to walk very slowly, drink 3L of water per day, eat as much as you can and rest during the night. The forest, suffused with mist and dripping with beards of moss, is also where you’ll find most of the animals (not dangerous animals, we only saw monkeys and ants).

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

The forest is beautiful, I had to stop a million times to take photos and film the huge trees we walk trough. After 5 hours (the last hour is painful) we arrived at Mandara Hut, our first night stop. Mandara hut, is a group of wooden A-framed huts in a forest clearing. Each hut features 6-8 sleeping bunks with solar generated lighting. Water is piped into the camp from springs above and there are flush toilets behind the main hut. Dinner is prepared by our cook and served in a communal dining mess. The food was delicious! After dinner the guide Nelson measure our blood oxygen saturation and heartbeat. He will do this every morning and night to see how your body is reacting to altitude.

The huts are what they are… you can’t ask any luxury when you are in such remote areas, specially when we talk about toilets, be prepared! It was the only night I had problems to sleep, I felt in some way the lack of oxygen, but I was so tired that I felt asleep in seconds.

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

DAY TWO

• MANDARA HUT (2715M) – HOROMBO HUT (3705M)
• Hiking time: 6h
• Distance: Approximately 11.6 km
• Habitat: Moorland

We woke up very early, had breakfast and packed our stuff. I was feeling great, no pain on my legs, no problems breathing… I was very excited! From Mandara hut the trail passes through a short stretch of forest, skirts the base of the Maundi Crater and then emerges into the transition from rain forest to moorland. Once you are in the open moorland you will get the chance to see some of Kilimanjaro’s most spectacular plants – the endemic giant lobelia which grows up to 3m in height and the giant groundsel (Senecia Kilimanjari), which can reach heights of 5m! We stopped and had lunch in the rocks surrounded by nature. After about 6 hours trek, we reached the Horombo hut, where we had a hot bowl of washing water to wash our feet. After a quick rest, we had dinner, played some cards and sleep.

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

DAY THREE

• HOROMBO HUT (3705M) – ACCLIMATIZATION DAY

Horombo hut is a village with buildings similar to Mandara, but with a total capacity of 120 climbers! Horombo is normally bustling with hikers, guides and porters, with an atmosphere of adventure and excitement. You will meet both ascending and descending hikers here. Is a great place to talk with those who reached the top, make some questions, ask for tips… Of course I spoke also with people who didn’t make it. Don’t listen to them lol, you will get more anxious! To climb Kilimanjaro you need to be focused, you need to believe, its important to be physically in shape but is equally important to trust you! Be mentally prepared to suffer and to climb that shit up! You can do it!

So, this extra day and night at Horombo is for additional acclimatization. A hike towards the Mawenzi hut, passing the Zebra Rocks on the way (about 3 hours up and 1,5 hours down), is strongly recommended! You are probably thinking, “I’m not going, I am resting all day”… I thought the same, but I really recommend you to do, also that trek is not very hard and you see some greats landscapes. This hike will further assist with the process of acclimatization. All meals for the day are provided at the hut.

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

DAY FOUR

• HOROMBO HUT (3705M) – KIBO HUT (4730M)
• Hiking time: 6h
• Distance: Approximately 9.6 km
• Habitat: Alpine desert

After breakfast we continue our ascent into the Alpine desert habitat passing the last watering point at 4130m. Situated in the barren Alpine desert is Kibo hut (4730M), a stone build block house which has bunk beds for 60 climbers, but no streams with water nearby. There are platform toilets behind the hut, they small like shit, a truly adventure, good luck!

The summit is now a further 1195m up and we will make our final ascent the same night.

After lunch we start preparing our equipment and thermal clothing for the summit. To prevent freezing it will be wise to carry your water in a thermal flask, mine was almost in Ice. We went to bed at around 15h00 to try to get as much rest and sleep as possible. We woke up around 19:00H, had some food and, grab our things and… we’re ready!

DAY FIVE

• KIBO HUT (4730M) – UHURU PEAK (5895M) – HOROMBO HUT (3705M)
• Hiking time: 8 to 9 hours to reach Uhuru Peak, 6 to 8 hours to descend to Horombo
• Distance: Approximately 5.4km ascent and 15 km descent
• Habitat: Stone scree and ice-capped summit

We started our trekking around 22h30, we were very nervous, it was now or never… it was very cold and dark. A guy who climbed day before told us, the first 900m is extremely hard, the the other 300m are ok. We were rising very slow, the first section of the trail consists of a rocky path to the Hans Meyer Cave (5150m – this is where most of the people give up). At Hans Meyer Cave we stop did a 5 minutes stop to eat some energy bars, drink water and pee. You can´t rest more than 5 minutes otherwise you’re going to freeze (it was abou -10C). The path then zigzags up to Gillman’s point (5 681m), which is located on the crater rim. This section is very steep with a lot of stone scree, requiring a great physical and mental effort. Is a bit scary because is dark and you can’t see more than 2 meters in front of you. This is probably the most demanding section of the entire route. At this time I got like in automatic mode, I couldn’t think or feel any pain or cold… I was just walking and walking… suddenly my heart was beating so fast that I started to worry about! I spoke with the guide who help me with my bag. I was sweating like hell, I could feel my clothes getting wet.

Finally we arrived at Gillmans Point, for me this was like mission accomplished. I knew the worst part was done, I was feeling great and we were all smiling and happy, except my friend Sergio who was getting blue lol! We were worried about him, but we were so close to the top that we couldn’t let him to give up! It was getting morning and you can see the first ray of lights. Here you will encounter snow and huge glacier… the views are stunning. After some pictures we walk all the way up to Uhuru peak (5895m)… well, this last 1,5km is not so easy as I thought. A simple step seems like “running a marathon”… we don´t have a lot oxygen up here, so moving is much more hard. You start seeing a lot of travelers coming from different routes, the atmosphere is great.

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

On the last 50 meters I finally realized we did it! I am at the highest point in Africa. Total exhilaration and satisfaction – I made it… I started crying like a baby, I don’t know exactly why… I guess I felt relieved that everything went well… or maybe because I never believed we would make it, maybe because the the views were beyond beautiful – I felt so strong, so happy, dancing, I couldn’t stop crying and I manage to put all my friends crying too ahaha!

Weather conditions on the summit will determine how long people will be able to stay there. Usually you only stay 15 minutes, yehhh… we stayed 1 hour, we didn’t care about the cold of the lack of oxygen, we just wanted to seat and enjoy the moment. We even went to the glacier to take some pictures.

We started our 3 hour descent back to Kibo hut… only here you realize what you have done. The reason why people climb during the night is because you can’t see what you are climbing… If it was during the day I would probably give up, not because is dangerous, but because is so big I would say “I can’t, I’m not strong enough, is not possible).

Is like a 900m wall!!! Climbing Kilimanjaro its 50% physical and 50% mental… usually people get scared and think about too many shits… you can’t think, you have to do it!  In my opinion to reach the top you need to challenge your mind, more than your body.

Descending is not so easy… I didn’t feel any pay or cold, the sun was warm enough. I just wanted to arrive at the hut! After a short rest we gather all our things and went down to Horombo hut (3 hours) to stay overnight. The return to Horombo hut is surprisingly fast compared to the ascent. The total time spent walking on this day is around 14 hours. My feet was hurting, I had bubble blisters all over my feet. I was so tired that the only thing I could think is “where’s the bed?”. Later in the evening we had our last dinner on the mountain and a well-earned sleep, filled with memories and stirring emotions. We were tired but we couldn’t stop talking about it, lol. All groups was just in one hut.

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

DAY SIX

• HOROMBO HUT (3705M) – MARANGU GATE (1860M)
• Hiking time: 7h
• Distance: Approximately 19.7 km

After breakfast we continue our descent (7 hours), passing the Mandara hut, down to the Marangu gate. My feet was hurting so much I had to walk very slowly, besides that, the fact that we didn’t had shower for the last 6 days, some parts of my body were with chapped skin from the wet towels (buy without alcohol). At some point I was so physically and mentally exhausted that I didn’t care about my foot, I start running, I could wait anymore, I just wanted to arrive, take my boots out, drink a coke a smoke a cigarette (yes I stop smoking for 6 days). Finally we arrived at Marangu gate, after signing my name and details in a register we receive our summit certificates. Those climbers who reached Gillman’s Point (5685m) are issued with green certificates and those who reached Uhuru Peak (5895m), receive gold certificates. After the ceremony we went back to the hotel… finally we had a shower! I barely could walk, lol, I had pain in everywhere and took around 15 minutes to walk till the bar to get one drink!

After all, it was an unforgettable experience, it worth every step. I totally recommend those who love nature to do it! The climb to the top of Kilimanjaro gets tough and at times you will want to give up. Don’t. If you do, you will not experience achievement. Your dreams will remain just that – dreams. Remember, you will only turn them into reality if you persevere.

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

travel blogger climbing kilimanjaro

BEFORE YOU TRAVEL

Climbing Kilimanjaro is not like going to the beach in Thailand, you need to make a huge list of clothes and gear, buy some medicines, do a medical check-up, organize travel insurance, prepare your body, etc. In this post you find everything you need to be succeed in this adventure.

GEAR

Here you will find only the gear I really needed for climbing Kilimanjaro. Most of this itens you can rent with ClimbingKilimanjaro.com, just ask them by e-mail if is available and the price.

BAGS

• 1 (Duffel) Bag +/- 80 L for transporting gear (better rent there!)
• 1 Daypack – Between 35L. Large enough to carry your camera, water, rain-gear, snacks & warm clothing
• 1 Backpack +/- 80 L (I also rented mine there).

FOOTWEAR

• 1 Hiking Boots Waterproof, ankle height and well worn in.
• 1 Lightweight walking shoes
• 1 Gaiters – Waterproof to protect against mud ( I rented there)
• 2 Warm / Thermal Socks – For use higher on the mountain and in colder weather
• 5 Trekking Socks – For the lowered slopes of Kilimanjaro
• 2 Liner Socks – For under warm socks in case of extreme cold.

OUTER WEAR (THIRD LAYER)

• 1 Outer Jacket Insulated, Waterproof, breathable & windproof – Must be able to withstand extreme cold
• 1 Outer trousers 1 Insulated, Waterproof, breathable & windproof – Must be able to withstand extreme cold
• 1 Rain Coat Lightweight

INSULATION (SECOND LAYER)

• 2 Fleece Jacket 100 & 200 (equal to a 300 series)
• 1 Polar fleece Pants.

NEXT TO SKIN (FIRST LAYER)

• 2 Thermal underwear polar fleece pants
• 2 Thermal underwear tops
• 6 to 7 Underwear – Wickable and breathable fabrics are ideal

CLIMBING ACCESSORIES

• 1 Scarf to protect your neck and face, it must be windproof.
• 1 Gloves – Insulated, Waterproof, windproof and breathable must be able to withstand extreme cold (-20C)
• 1 Hat with a wide brim
• 1 pair of Trekking poles / Walking sticks (I rented there)
• 2 Insulated water Bottles (1,5L each… you must drink 3L per day!)
• 1 Compulsory to stop water freezing high on the mountain ( I didn’t took and my water was freezing, almost ice, you should defiantly take one!)
• 1 Headlamp
• 1 Water Purification Tablets
• 1 Sun Glasses  with good UV protected lenses
• Batteries For headlamps
• 4 Hand Warmers
• 4 Feet Warmers (It will help you on the summit day!)
• 1 Sleeping Bag – Rated to at least –5 comfort / -15 extreme degrees Celsius ( I rented mine there)
• 1 Sleeping Bag Inner made from Microtex or Polar fleece (mine costed 50€ but I didn’t had cold at all)
• Plastic bags – To ensure that all your gear stays dry

ACCESSORIES

• 1 Compact and quick drying Hikers Towel
• Soap, toothbrush, toilet articles, nailbrush, handy Toilet kit wipes (wet wipes!!!), etc.
• 2 Toilet Rolls
• 1 SPF50+ Sun Screen Lotion
• 1 Baby Powder
• 1 Vaseline Avoid friction of your sock to prevent blisters
• 1 SPF Lip Balm (don’t forget!)
• 1 Money belt or small bag for your passport and valuables
• 1 Baby wet wipes (you are going to be 5 days without having shower, you will really need this)
• 1 Rainproof bag 35L covers to protect your daypack from rain

HIKING GEAR CLOTHING

• 1 Trousers (quick drying Explorer type Fabric)
• 6 Casual T-Shirts
• 7 Regular underwear

FIRST AID

• Pain Killers
• Muscle Rub
• Personal first aid Kit For minor cuts and bruises
• Imodium (diarrhea)
• Valiod (for Nausea & vomiting)
• Aspirin
• Bandages
• Throat lozenges
• Eye drops
• Insect repellent
• Diamox!!! (diuretic) For altitude sickness
• Rehydrate powder (Potassium)

ACCESSORIES

• Cell phone – Phone Reception is not very good, you’ll probably will get some sinal here and there.
• 1 Roll Duct tape
• Powdered sport drinks  (Powerade, Gatorade, Energized, Game or Isotonic drinks)
• Energy snacks and sweets
• Ear plugs (remember you gonna share the huts with other travelers).
• Plastic bags (For dirty toilet paper between camps, discard properly at the next camp)

TIPS

There are several things you can do to prepare for climbing Kilimanjaro:

• Have a medical check-up. Make sure you are healthy before you start your climb.
  Update your vaccinations and ask about other immunizations at your local travel
  clinic. Yellow fever vaccinations are necessary if you entered via Dar Es Salem.
  Pack a medical kit with enough of any medications you may need.
  Organize travel insurance, including cover for evacuation to a suitable hospital.
• Be aware of Malaria and Yellow Fever when in low altitude areas. Malaria and yellow fever, are transmitted by insect bites. While there are vaccines and drugs available to help protect you against some of these diseases, you’re advised to always protect yourself against mosquito bites.
  Don´t forget to use mosquito repellent.
• Public toilets are available at every campsite, however the cleanliness of the toilets are not good and many complaints are received by Kilimanjaro national park concerning the cleanliness of public toilets on the mountain. Be prepared.
• Guides and porters – The guide’s communication were great, they all speak very good english and their knowledge about the flora and fauna is remarkable. We had 3 guides (Nelson, WindGod and Beatus), do accept their advices!!! They have climbed hundreds of times this mountain! They are trained to recognize the symptoms of altitude sickness and the mountain is no place to take chances with your health. According to the Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Centre in Moshi, 25 people died from 1996 to 2003 while climbing the mountain. Seventeen were female and eight were male, ranging in age from 29 to 74. They have died from advanced high altitude illness. The overall mortality rate was an estimated 13.6 per 100,000 climbers (0.0136 percent).
• The equipment that the porters carry is weighed at the park gate to ensure that the recommended maximum weight (of your bag) of 15kg is not exceeded. Make sure you give a good tip to them, they work very hard and always remember without them you wouldn’t reach the top. Usually you give between 200$ to 250$ tip. The tip should be paid to the main guide at the end of the climb. The guide will distribute the tip fairly to the rest of mountain crew.
• You will hear the following very often: “Pole-Pole”. It means: Take it easy! As Kilimanjaro is not technically demanding, most people go too fast and get into trouble acclimatizing. If you are out of breath during the first 2 days then you will be in trouble later on. Go steady, breath through your nose and be careful with your knees (keep legs bent). If you are feeling bad, always tell your guide as it might implicate mountain sickness.

Do you have any Doubts? Curiosities?Please contact ClimbingKilimanjaro.com. 

AND GOOD LUCK! 🙂

João Cajuda

Hi! My name is João Cajuda, I’m a travel blogger from Portugal and founder of this website. In this blog I share my adventures around the world and give you tips about hotels, restaurants, activities and destinations to visit. You can travel through my videos or join my group tours that I organize to selected destinations. Visit my Adventure Travel Agency LEVA-ME and join one of my journeys!